Toilet Plumbers Near Me | Fort Lauderdale

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Toilet Repair Services Near Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Harbor Beach, Franklin Park, Boulevard Gardens, Washington Park, Roosevelt Gardens, Wilton Manors, Chula Vista, Rock Island, Oakland Park, Melrose Park

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be one of the most common– and disturbing– plumbing problems you may experience in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continually, a toilet repair is an problem you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and maintain them in good working order as they are among the most considerable fixtures in a plumbing system. We do not offer them much thought until something goes wrong and they stop working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among property owners’ most common domestic challenges. Many will attempt to fix the problem, only to find that the fix did not work or that the problem reappeared.

When the problem requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Broward County, Florida locations, our local plumbing professional team can handle toilet repair fast and efficiently, and at a reasonable cost.

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Most Common Issues with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to handle. Nonetheless, not all services require emergency plumbing services.

Allow us to go through a few of the typical problems dealt with by clients that have contacted us for ideas on how to fix them:

Moaning sounds:

If you hear moaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing:

Either of these two problems will possibly trigger the unit to flush and start filling on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, resulting in a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes twice or even 3 times. A high water level is typically the source of this problem. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this issue.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the problem here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.

Changing a worn or broken flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Slow flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle correctly inside the bowl.

Base leaks:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipe at the base of the unit must be replaced if it leaks when flushed. This process requires a qualified plumbing service.

Not flushing totally:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for a proper water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Obstructed holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean any clutter, carefully poke each flush opening with a curved piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Typical Toilet Issue Yourself

A toilet consists of two major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the upper tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where two essential valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where much of the toilet repairs occur.

You will be surprised to learn that most problems are fairly simple to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried out a new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, do not give up hope. Here’s a solution that makes sure it works.

Few home annoyances are quite as irritating as the sound of continuously running water. If you hear filling up frequently, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit could be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drainpipe opening (flush valve drainpipe seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water until the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water leaks out, creating the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware store or home center to find a similar one.

Note: Occasionally, a new flapper does not fix the problem. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is possibly rough or pitted.

You can replace the complete flush flapper valve; nonetheless, it is not an easy job, and it may require the experience of a plumber near Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Step 2: Flapper Kit with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone didn’t work, look for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you stick to the broken seat with the glue provided.

First, shut the water supply to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to allow the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Use a sponge to remove the water that remains entirely.
Follow the included directions to set up the new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your unit utilizes more than this, eliminate the timing cup.
  Set up the new flapper.
With the flapper down, adjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to check the flush.

Note: You might need to fiddle with the chain length to get the flapper functioning correctly.

When finished, cut off the excess chain to prevent it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If shaking the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any of these basic repairs possibly will.

The handle is a primary device– just a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you could strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it might not be installed correctly. Loosen up the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top side of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, slip the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a new one if the threads are too damaged or broken.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Check out the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
If there are problems, replace the entire handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before buying a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.

Tip 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain connecting the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, replace it.

Shopping Tips for Toilets

Fed up with your old, dripping, water hog of a toilet and want to purchase a new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with a variety of options. Use the following tips for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summer times are moist where you live, and you do not have air conditioning, you’ve possibly noticed “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the outside of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated tanks to avoid condensation problems. Look into this option if you have “sweating” problems.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the bowl’s edge– the standard height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, commonly called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The added heights available make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging people. Designs for kids with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most common style in homes. Yet one-piece designs are offered. Two-piece designs are usually less expensive; one-piece designs typically have shorter tank and are much easier to clean.

One-piece designs are the choice of many homeowners because of their smooth, sleek appeal.

Cost:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not immediately suggest better efficiency. Many of the best models we have tested were relatively affordable and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Fashion is fickle. Stick with a white or beige color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll dislike a few years later.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have plenty of space above or beside your toilet, this probably isn’t all that crucial. Make sure to choose a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the space is limited.

Purchasing a suitable style is very important, to save yourself a return trip to the store, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchors the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind it. A twelve-inch “rough-in” is the most common measurement; however, in some older homes, you could have a 10-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl shape:

Many unit designs marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are good if the area is snug.
Elongated bowls have a more extended edge– as much as 2-inch longer– and require more space.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much more comfortable for adult use which helps boost health and wellness. Review your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before picking the bowl shape.

Footprint:

If you mount a new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you may need to paint the part of the wall surface covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a large footprint on the floor, you might need to patch and fix the floor part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You might additionally need to replace the entire floor before setting up a new unit.